Weekend trip to Jowai, Meghalaya

The more you explore a place, more fascinating it turns to be. One such place is Meghalaya. After visiting the touristy places last time, I opted for less explored places in West Jantia Hills this weekend.

Here I'm off to Shillong.

Initially I had planned for stay in Shillong and then to visit the places. But while zooming places in google map in the shared cab to shillong, I found place called Jowai, and with further searching zeroed it down to Amaara Homestay.

After confirming with Monica, owner of Amaara Homestay for my stay, I breathed relief and started enjoying the drizzle outside

I was advised to get down on Anjali Petrol pump stand instead of going to police bazaar. I did the same and with guidance from few locals and traffic guards, I walked down toward a market place opposite Anjalee cinema hall.

( note for solo female travelers, always confirm with numerous people, traffic police to reach location if it is not there in google map)

The place is there in map but then it was almost 7pm and I was distraught. I had heard there won't be any cabs available after 8pm

My heart sighed relief when I found the yellow Tata Sumo cabs in the stand (last three). I boarded them along with the locals and the cab started at 7.30pm from Anjalee to Jowai.

Monica was my lifeline during and before my stay in Jowai. Total sweetheart. I was in touch with her all time in whatsup. when she heard that I boarded the last cabs, she informed that the cab won't stop for any dinner break (since this route is taken mostly by locals) and by the time I would reach Jowai, everything would be closed. So I requested her to order some food for Dinner online on my behalf, which she was kind enough to do it instantly

We suffered terrible traffic jam that day before exiting Shillong. It took us three hours to reach Jowai, instead of 2hrs.

Here I'm in Jowai at 10.30pm, walking uphill toward my homestay

Petite interior

I was blessing Monica in my heart while having my late night dinner

Next day morning view from terrace of homestay

I went down to taxi stand along with Aaron, our caretaker, a very polite and sweet kid. We agreed on a taxi for whole day. After I had left, Aaron called asking me to share the number of taxi driver with whom I went for visit. Such a heartwarming gesture! It was so good to feel that somebody has your back. I'll be back in this homestay for these two people alone😊

Fascinating roadside views

😊

Initially I had told my driver dada to take me to monolith. He took surprise detour and our first stop was Jayanti Shaktipeeth Shri Nartiang Durga Temple

Inside, the temple had magnetic, electric but in same time calming presence. The view around was beautiful with greens hills misted with whites clouds

After loitering there for few minutes, we started off for monoliths

on way

"Nartiang Monoliths is probably the largest collection of monoliths in a single place, where each and every piece of rock is dedicated to someone."

"Some of these stones were erected half a millennia ago and additions were made till the middle of the nineteenth century."

Go through the beautiful story of this place shared in this article- https://www.zizira.com/blogs/people-and-process/mar-phalyngki-and-the-monoliths-and-market-of-nartiang

"The standing monoliths or menhirs are dedicated to the male ancestors

while the flat ones, the dolmens, are dedicated to the women."

After this,

Short break near historical Thadlaskein Lake.

It is said that this beautiful lake was dug about 5 centuries ago by the tens of thousands of warriors’ faithful and using the tip of their battle bows only as digging instruments.

Tea and snack break in a small hut outside Thadlaskein Lake

You will find almost everyone chew pan leaves. As per khasi people, the leaves will keep their teeth and gum healthy.

Jingbam Dihsha along with cup of hot tea- Tasty Traditional/ Indigenous cuisine of Khasis.

All set for next location

A sound advice, don't stop or enter this place, go further 100m, cross a small pool and park your car on left side of road. hike down, you can directly go to phe phe falls with zero cost.

I entered through this gate and had to spend Rs500 in parking, boat crossing (to and fro) and again for some crap which I don't remember.

They won't even guide you or brief you on how to reach.

Many who went without guide, came back without even seeing the phe phe falls (because one has to cross the river)

The boat

It was as if Charon (much more friendlier) was ferrying us across the river Styx. The sound of oars hitting the clear water was music to ears

Since I was without guide and travelling solo. The people who were waiting on other side of river to return, told me to follow the electric wire on poles

Initially I was following the poles but after few minutes, my adventure mind took off and started straying from the path but

"who's this human?

Hey!! No trespassing! GET BACK! follow your black wires!"

Me back on track

Meanwhile, "Huh. You guys saw? who's the boss😎"

Cute clear river

on way

ups and

downs

I was walking along the right side of river. Gradually I could hear deep sound of waterfall. with nobody in sight during my whole trip, I cautiously moved forward

Here on the top of the fall

see the black moss on left? I slipped and almost came to the edge. Any further, I would have gone with Charon in actual.

Note: Be cautious. If you want to explore, take a guide along with you to save your neck

I thought that this, though pretty, doesn't look like the ones which I had seen in pic. Confounded, I started walking uphill thinking there must be some route to go down

after searching for 20mins, finding no clear path I spotted people on opposite hill were walking down the stairs. I stood on top to see from where they're coming. They seemed to have parked on other side of road ( 100m after crossing the Phe phe camp on NH, on left side)

small patches where vegetables are grown by locals

I had come all along not to go back without seeing the falls. Took final steps to walk down and cross the river

Navigating cautiously on my own, I crossed the river. DONNOT DO THAT during rainy season or if you have never crossed any mountain river. The river water has it's own current and have severe endless potholes/ big crevices. Use stick to poke the surface before stepping on stones under water.

Finally on the other side

The well trodden path

relief

HUGE relief

Here comes the second level of fall, phe phe fall

see the hill top with trees on other side?👆

I spend 20 mins trying to find route. from here I can see that there was no visible routes. You HAD to cross the river

Finally

can you locate our furry friend in the pic? He saw me taking pic and immediately took a pose😂

Magnificent falls. It was worth the hassle. Pristine, calm and most importantly crowd free

I wore my aqua shoes. My plastic bag in which I had carried those qrice cakes had collapsed. Couldnot take weight of my other shoe. So did jugaad and made my makeshift handle to carry both my shoes and poncho

My delicious lunch

Beauty worth any pain

now tracing back

see what I meant by not crossing river alone👇

Here comes my friendlier Charon 😀

Steering toward the shore

I had wanted to visit Krem Liat Prah Caves next but found the it's private property and need prior appointment before visit. Monica advised me to try visit Shnongpdeng. It was already 2.30pm. we were not sure if the place would remain open when we reach, we took a try

unreal lines of trucks carrying limestones, to cross the border.

Reached Darrang at 5.10pm

rushed down to see whether boating is being done. Thankfully Yes!

Water of river was such that you can see the pebbles from river bed

Both the shores were crowded with villagers fishing

Sail against the flow

our boatman took me to see a living root bridge!

serene evening

Left the premises at 7pm and was stuck in traffic jam of trucks. Seeing that I won't get anything on way, I requested Monica again for Dinner.

Next day took early morning cab to Guwahati

bought snacks along the way

😁

😁😁😁

Magic dal was truly magical

It was a beautiful trip but it craved 2 more days to cover the area. I need to visit the place again. People, esp Khasi people were pretty reserved. I guess it must be because we city people take rampage advantage of their simpleness and innocence. Once you break through the initial barrier they are best of friends. Definitely visiting Jowai again.

Notes:

• Go to Jowai taxi stand near guwahati railway station instead of going via shillong. It will save you two hours

• Shared taxi charges Rs200-Rs300

• Rent of taxi for whole day, depending on areas to cover, is anywhere between Rs1100-Rs2000

• If you are exploring some unknown area alone, better take a guide

Ref:

https://www.meghalayatourism.in/destinations/nartiang-monoliths/

https://anafanovelsworld.wordpress.com/2020/11/19/thadlaskein-lake/

Keep travelling!!

PS-I forgot to say, I disposed my makeshift plastic handle properly in dustbin