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Exploring 100+ years old Durga pujo of North Kolkata

Updated: Jan 31, 2022

2021- UNESCO recognizes Kolkata’s Durga Puja as Intangible Cultural Heritage, giving international recognition to the biggest religious festival of the 331-year-old city and the state of West Bengal.


1757, the year which was pivotal to Bengal and our country. In 1757, the last Nawab of Bengal, Siraj-ud-daullah lost to the British army and Bengal lost its independence to the foreign rulers, who would go on to rule India in the next few centuries and 1757 is also when first family Durga Puja started in Kolkata, by Nabakrishna Deb of Sovabazar Rajbari.


The friendship between Clive and Nabakrishna was deeper than most people are aware. To celebrate their win after the Battle of Plassey, Nabakrishna offered the use of his own home in Sovabazar to Clive and as legend goes, organized the first “barir pujo” for the festival of Durga Puja, where he invited Clive to pay respects and offerings at the feet of the deity.


This Durga Puja set a trend and it became fashionable for upcoming merchant classes of Kolkata to start their own Durga Pujas which came to be known as Bonedi Bari durga pujo, the traditional household pujo's of distinguished or aristocratic families


If you are in kolkata during durga puja, you will find that the community pujas have abstract and outstanding themes, which keeps on changing every year, with different outlooks and innovation. What sets apart is that bonedi bari pujo religiously follows the same rituals which they have been following for past many decades and there lies it's beauty. The Bonedi Bari has Sabeki Durga Pratima: Traditional idols with three eyes, standing on Chala, adorned with Potochitra, hand painted series of stories from rural Bengal. they are decked up with heavy golden jewelry, dating back to history.


I had never visited any bonedi barir pujo in kolkata, so decided to dedicate one day to this event. we had started early, at 9am on foot from esplanade and our first stop was


Rani Rashmoni Bhawan

SN Banerjee Road, New Market Area, Dharmatala, Taltala, Kolkata, West Bengal 700013

The prayers had just begun.

I was captivated with the uneven chips on the pillars and half broken coloured glasses on doorways. if only they could speak! they might have narrated dazzling tales


Akrur Dutta dalanbari

F/5dr.b.c roy market, West Bengal 700069

this was difficult to locate, had to ask several people but they didn't know abot Dutta pujo. I was almost dejected and was stepping toward the next spot when an elderly person pointed out that there's puja happening inside the flat. I followed his direction, entering into the premises. In backlane of this flat was this dalanbari

It was beautiful ambience. The puja started and went on for 30-40mins. you can sit here for hours and hear the ringing symphony of brass bells with lazy haze from dhuno in air


Ramgopal Saha House

3, Thakurdas Palit Ln, Bowbazar, Kolkata, West Bengal 700012

It was closed. might be due to covid

Since I was following the map ( shared towards end of this blog), I tried to find Nilmani Dey thakurbari, motilal Durga bari and Dutta bari along the way but was unsuccessful. during this search I came across


Kalidas Chandra Bari

Bowbazar, Kolkata, West Bengal 700012

The family welcomed me with smiles and one gentleman was kind enough to brief on the puja going on. In the Bonedi Baris, the lion as a Bahon is replaced with a horse. They say this was to appease the British rulers who thought Lion, a British empirical symbol, will be demeaned if seated at the feat of natives’ idol!

I had entered the house on seeing the gate adorned with mango leaves and green coconut. It indicates that there's idol inside. this was tip to introverts like me who lack courage to venture inside. during five days of durga puja, you can just enter and see the festivities around

Till now, I was walking. walking through the narrow lanes. sometimes I was skeptical that whether google was showing correct locations, because these weren't any roads but tiny passages but I had no other options 😂, so forward march


Nilmani Dey Thakur bari ( might be wrong, please do inform if you know the name)

Bowbazar, Kolkata, West Bengal 700012




1, Sanatan Seal Ln, Bowbazar, Kolkata, West Bengal 700012

It was near the earlier temple. the place was silent with two (visible) family members making arrangements near the idol. the walk towards the idol was a steep climb

here, you can see something different. Devi Durga is seated on lap on Shiva



Sen Bari

Satrughna Ghosh Ln, College Square, Kolkata, West Bengal 700009


Another lane

came across many community or barwari puja pandals on way to bonedi bari durga puja

It was almost lunch time and I was feeling pangs of hunger

Here, I got call from my ever punctual friends that they have arrived for the day's tour. asking them to come down to Paramount, I started walking towards college street and covered the following two on way


6-4, Ramanath Majumdar St, College Square, Kolkata, West Bengal 700007



10/2B, College Square, Kolkata, West Bengal 700009


Paramount Cold drinks & Syrups- had our regular "the tender coconut", which was such a relief after such long walks. My other VIP friends joined me and we cheered to the second half of covering traditional pujos


Radhanath Basu Mallick Bari

Surya Sen St, Newland, College Square, Kolkata, West Bengal 700009



Radhanath Mallick Bari

46, Shreegopal Mullick Ln, Lalbajar, College Square, Kolkata, West Bengal 700012

crossing mohammad ali park ( famous for it's night lights during Durga puja)


Community pujas

We were still walking and now our main destination was lunch. on way to restaurant, we came across a community pujo and saw big table fan with available seats. we sat down as dead meat😂 This elderly person was such a kind and warm angel, he stuffed us with fruits like a indulging granddad🙂 After spending few minutes there, we started off for our lunch


BADAN CHANDRA ROY’S HOUSE

Kabiraj Row Rd, Tiretti, Kolkata, West Bengal 700073

The 150 years Durga puja was started by Late Badan Chandra Roy in his palatial three storied house at Kolootola opposite to Medical College Hospital. the family had kept drinking water with disposable cups for visitors, which was a very considerate move.



Finally our lunch spot at Sui vei!! We were so hungry that our brains were not functioning. but surprisingly, it started working as soon as we laid our hands in the menu😂

our muted feast


This mademoiselle almost broke one of the chinaware with her excitement

These two in selfie zones

It was almost 5.30when we left the restaurant and decided to go for sovabazzar rajbari.

Lady in pic riding metro for first time 🙂


Shovabazar Rajbari

154-52, Jatindra Mohan Ave, Raja Nabakrishna Street, Sovabazar, Shobhabazar, Kolkata, West Bengal 700005

In 1897, after Swami Vivekananda returned from Chicago, his first civic reception was held on the grounds of the Sovabazar Rajbari and a framed photograph of the event hangs in the premises of the rajbari today.


we started walking towards girish park to cover Daw and laha bari. On way, we were stopped on tracks by beautiful jugalbandi and we spent some 15 minutes relishing the tunes of dhakis


Mitra Bariat Darjipara

Girish Park, Darjipara, Kolkata, West Bengal 700006

The Mitras were business family. One of the business in their portfolio was to trade precious stones and jewellery to nawab Sirajudullah, the last emperor of undivided Bengal!


Ramdulal Sarkar St, Manicktala, Azad Hind Bag, Kolkata, West Bengal 700006

Musical night. this family had invited professional singers for the event. we sat there for 30mins and were given (non veg) snacks and drinks! I was hesitant on accepting because I thought the caterers might have mistaken us for family members but then I gladly took the much needed drinks.

It was 8pm. We attempted Laha and Daw and others but they were closed to outsiders due to covid.

most of them near Girish park was closed to outsiders due to pandemic. we were tired to bones and decided to return home

Though we couldnot complete all of them, it was worth the tour. I would recommend to plan on bonedi bari durga pujo in morning and barwari pujos in evening during ongoing pandemic.

I had got the tentative list of Bonedi Barir Durga Puja, Kolkata from following link

https://goo.gl/maps/fZKjtaJPZ1TkFVr76 and have attached the articles which might be of use if you decide to go on bonedi bari Durga puja tour.


Keep Exploring🥂


Ref:


( editing in progress, would request your patience )

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