Solo trip to Varanasi

The essence lies on the paved stone roads, where years of countless steps have smoothened the sharp surface. Where each narrow turns make you wonder. It's like you are tightly woven and tangled, and walking along the lanes, slowly unfurls your binded threads. The late night Aarti in Kashi Vishwanath temple; The sudden roar of spontaneous chants, make you smile like a fool. Initially was Trying to analyze the environment, but after few futile attempts, like they say ' jai sambhu!' threw everything onto air and went with the flow. Varanasi ( as I had expected and dreamt badly on going) is pure happiness. You cannot exactly place finger on a particular place or an event, it blends along with the Aarti, ghats, temple and the most fascinating the nameless lanes etched with aeons

took train to Varanasi. do travel in local train, its fun

One day earlier I had mailed for room in Ramkrishna mission guest house, which Maharaj had confirmed through mail. I was ecstatic to visit this city at last, were time is said to have stopped. I had boarded shared e rickshaw for Rs10-Rs20 for Ramkrishna Mission guest house. while I was on way, I gave a call to guesthouse; when they recognized that I'm a solo female traveler they immediately regretted the lodging. they though I was coming with family. I felt terrible and discriminated with this judgement where solo male can stay but female cannot. well, its quarters for monks, so I guess this would be the rule. then I went to sevashram, same thing happened. you might be thinking what's wrong with me, I could have booked some good hotels or lodges through booking portal. please understand that first thing I was travelling alone, second I had heard too many stories (not good ones) of women facing stuff in Varanasi and finally I had only 3k in my account :p . guesthouse in Ramkrishna mission was safest and also economical.

Now that there was no secure lodging, I started checking goibibo and other but was not satisfied with the rooms offered. it was already 5pm and I was walking in main road with no idea where to halt for night. somewhere while surfing wildly, I saw that Hotel Alka ( near Dasaswamedh ghat) had good reputation and feedbacks given by female travelers were good; so I started off toward ghat.

The tricky part was with transport. whenever I'm asking any auto for ghat, they surprisingly and boldly charging me Rs300-Rs400 for mere 4Km, as if I've dropped here from Mars ( I'm from Kolkata :D ) and have no idea about Indian transport system. ( I found that transport cost was cheapest in this section. you can travel 3km with Rs5- Rs10!!). One gentleman seeing me walk advised me to ask auto for 'godowalia chauraha' instead of ghat which I did and here I'm at ghat charged Rs10.

It was 5.30 pm on clock. my first priority was to arrange lodging for night. I took out my map and started following for Hotel Alka and what a road it was! after 10 mins, I closed my google and started asking the local people and vendors for the hotel and I reached it within 5 mins.

and as if my luck would soar any higher, I found that there was no room available and I sat down on hotel chairs dreading that I will have to start search again. the people in hotel were very polite and helpful. seeing a solo tired traveler, they started making calls and informed me that there is a hotel nearby with a room available. when asked if its safe, they assured me that its very much safe for me to stay there. I followed the person and reached there in 3mins. Kashi Stay Guest house was epitome of simple lodging with precision of cleanliness. There was vibes of Homestay. I did the required formalities, kept my backpack in my room and rushed out for the ganga arati. It was almost 6pm.

I somehow squeezed myself into the crowd ( before covid) and arrived in front row. but the seats were all taken! ( not a surprise seeing the tons of people already there) I sat on ground just beside the last seat in the front row and after few happening stuff ( you won't be interested in the stories) I sat there for whole event. now the arati began and I sat there trying to feel something but to tell you the truth I felt nothing. it too damn commercialized. the only thing which made it worthwhile for me was that I got to pull the bells!!! ok ok, I will go slow; in the below pic, on top, beside the yellow pole, can you see two bells on either side? those are tied to strings and selected people/ insiders/ person related to event are allowed to pull the strings. ( check any videos of ganga arati for understanding the mechanism in youtube)

I think god had mercy on me after such a day; the elderly person suddenly handed me the strings and the guard( for event) taught me how to pull them. I was smiling and grinning like a fool. it was like handing ice cream to a 4 year kid after one month lockdown. I kept with the flow and was doing well when my mind was blank ( was not thinking anything). when I started thinking on how thus string and mechanism works and at what frequency it needs to be pulled then my rhythm broke, even after the guard showed how to do it I messed up. I handed over the strings to the elderly person who was managing the bells earlier. there I got to understand don't mix logic with devotion. anyway, I was happy :) I got to pull the bells! ( I don't have dancing emoji, otherwise I would have put it here)

Did you see the bells!! you can see it now clearly in above pic. okhayy, I got it, I’ll zip my mouth here

after watching aarti I went to Kaal Bhairav temple. its common belief to visit and take permission of kaal bhairav before staying or visiting any other places in kashi/ Varanasi. I don’t like taking pics of idols inside temples, so you won’t find any. reaching kaal bhairav temple is easy, either walk or take e rickshaw @Rs10

I didn’t find any remarkable cuisine in the area apart from chaats (which is snacks not main course). might be because I didn’t have much time to explore. ( do tell me if you have any recommendation) the dairy products are superb in this zone, have them without any doubt.

After completing my dinner, I started off for hotel. it was in nearby lane but there are so many lanes that I got lost n number of times. thankfully there are police deployed in every turning ( due to fear of communal violence), they told me which way to go.

I was almost entering the hotel when a lady informed me that there will be arati in Kashi Viswanath temple in 15 minutes. I was bit apprehensive if its ok to go, because we will have to go there without any phone or metal. ( no google map and my well..my sense of direction ) I asked hotel owner if it will be safe to go, he gave nod and I marshalled towards the temple. Trust me that was the one of the best decision I made in 1N stay in varanasi.

It was shayana ( like singing to put lord to sleep) Arati in Viswanath temple. I don’t know about lord but I would have woken up if it was played. – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RmwBvSCRdI

I’ve shared the link for that aarti. in video there are many people but when I went, there were handful of local people and it was enchanting. the slight chill in the air, silence of dark night and the truth in chords of people singing the lines. it was magical. I stood there simply listening and absorbing the blessing.

when I was leaving hotel alka for Kashi hotel, I had spoken with a boat owner for early morning boat ride. he had asked me to get ready at 4am for the ride and here I was at 4.45am ( I tried but 4am ^_^ )

sunrise :)

he was steering the boat so easily, so I was like let me also try. I couldn’t even bulge an inch

2nd try was somewhat successful for 5 mins. I was able to do with only one oars but I steered the boat in opposite direction

final try with two oars, I gave up. its better to concentrate on feeding birds

it was bit disconcerting at first to suddenly find flock of birds rushing toward you ( to be specific, the food packet )

after few secs, it was beautiful

our brave and strong dada who pulled these oars for 60 mins! hatsoff!

a son wanted to build a temple in kashi to pay/ return his mother’s investment ( physical, emotional all of them). he built it and went off to bring his mom. on arriving on site, he found the temple has sunk; even after much effort he was unable to revive. the monk nearby told that you can never repay your mothers debt

After boat, caught auto and reached Ram bhandar ( check google map) for Desi ghee kachauri (google!) and jaleebi ( sweet)

some fusion of lassi filled with dry fruits

after having my fill in breakfast, I took e rickshaw to Sarnath. took Rs150. if you have more time to stay in Varanasi and buy some handlooms ( which they are famous for), go to old Varanasi and watch the weavers and buy from them instead from shops. I saw signboards in Mandarin script on roads (showing places i.e we see names of places mentioned on green board while travelling on road) in Varanasi, not sure what it meant. ( was concerned that our govt might have leased the whole place to them).

after reaching Sarnath, just roam around. there are temples, pagodas, zoo, archeological sites and museums. its all within same complex, just wander around. they will charge some amount to enter museum and archeological site. other than that everything is free.

you will find lot of people, mostly Buddhists and monks meditating in this place. they also have path taken by lord Buddha imprinted on ground, from tree to temple

Sarnath deer park. you will find clean washroom here

In this zoo, you can adopt an animal and pay for their welfare

curiosity at peak or should I say beak :D

There are many temples or holy places in the area, just explore

I had also visited sarnath museum http://www.sarnathmuseumasi.org/. It is the oldest site museum of Archaeological Survey of India. It houses the findings and excavations at the archaeological site of Sarnath, by the Archaeological Survey of India. Sarnath is located near Varanasi, in the state of Uttar Pradesh. The museum has 6,832 sculptures and artefacts.

Ashoka Pillar

this is shiva temple called sarang nath temple on hill with small pond at base almost 2-3km from the bodhi tree and earlier places. I felt so peaceful here that I wanted to sit here for hours. but I’ve train to catch, so left after 40 mins. you will get shared auto s to Varanasi rly station( 1st reserved auto from sarnath to some chauraha, then second shared auto from chouraha to varanasi rly station), keep 50 mins spare time in your hand if going on shared auto. it will cost 100 bucks.

To summarize what I loved during my 2day and 1night visit:

Varanasi– unknown cobbled lanes, shayana aarti at Vishwanath temple, ringing bells during evening arati in dashawamedh ghat ( :p) and feeding birds during boat ride. will visit again for same!

Sarnath– Sarang Nath temple

Be a responsible traveler. use less plastic and don’t throw stuff on roads. Keep wandering!

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